13.04.24
The media often ignores the harmonious coexistence of Christians, Muslims and Jews in cities like Jaffa. Of the 46,000 residents, about 16,000 are Israeli Arabs of Palestinian origin. It seems almost on purpose not to show the peaceful scenes in the picturesque Jaffa harbor, where people gather to enjoy coffee, ice cream, the amazing views, and delve into the history of unity reflected in projects like the Jaffa train station. This station, from 1892, marked the beginning of modern transportation in Israel on the “Jaffa-Jerusalem” line.
I had the opportunity to go on a walking tour of Jaffa and Neve Tzedek, the initial Jewish neighborhood that was built beyond the Old City and Jaffa. This area is known for the prestigious Susan Dellal Center for Dance and Theater, which presents Israeli and international contemporary dance companies, as well as the Nachum Gutman Museum.
My day started by immersing myself in the picturesque landscape at the slope park in Jaffa. The highlight of the walking tour was getting a free guide and self-appointment. Despite Neshama’s concerns about potential fatigue while exploring the central quarters of Tel Aviv, they skillfully combined historical facts, humorous personal anecdotes, insightful responses to my inquiries, and moments of quiet contemplation as we admired the architecture and history. One unforgettable moment was when they honored me with a variety of breads and pastries from the Arab market, a gesture they particularly enjoyed. As a food lover, I appreciate the recommendations, especially the flat bagels, baked with various spices, were all delightful to me. However, the baklava stood out; the rich blend of honey and nuts left a lasting impression, different from the Greek versions I’ve tasted before. Whenever I have the opportunity to enjoy dessert in the US, I will fondly remember this baklava. If you ever find yourself in Jaffa, be sure to indulge in all the culinary delights it offers – you will not be disappointed.
Along the harbor, of course, we stopped to drink coffee and ice cream. It was amazing for me to sit among a group of Arab women who smiled curiously as I sat there drinking my cold coffee. They were incredibly fashionable, friendly, drinking coffee and enjoying ice cream. I made sure to return a friendly gesture to make sure they knew I admired their style and appreciated their warmth. There were no fights, talk of genocide, no segregation. You had a cafe full of people from all walks of life. Where was CNN or Fox News to show some of the reality in Israel? What was even better was live social media as Neshama did their best attempt to eat a very large ice cream sundae in the dessert air in front of me. I’ll leave it to the imagination but mind you, I’ve collected quite a few napkins to support the cause. Nothing gets in the way of Neshama and ice cream.
While walking back to the car, I enjoyed listening to stories about concerts held in the nearby park, looking at videos of Neshama’s son dancing to Imagine Dragons, and belly laughs about amusing scenarios we encountered or came up with in our minds. It’s refreshing to keep things light, even in the midst of life’s challenges. Being able to be weird with someone who also enjoys being weird is part of the human connection I talk about- no conditions and, no judgments. By actively looking for the good in people and places, surprisingly, you will discover it. Unfortunately, many choose not to embrace these joyful moments. I will always remember a group of women at a table, modestly dressed but smiling, admiring my gold Tory Burch sandals and exchanging fashion gestures while enjoying coffee. Laughter of those who embody happiness is the most delightful melody that nature produces. These are the glimmers of hope I was looking for and found. Israel, my love for you is stronger than ever.
Am Yisrael Chai ❤️